Alexandria, the illustrious port town founded by Alexander the Great in the 3rd century BC, stretches in a thin strip for 30 km or so along the coast. Archaeologists speculate the flambouyant Macedonian general is buried in a tomb somewhere deep below the modern streets. Over the centuries the city has been shaped by a hodgepodge of cultures, influences, and epic tales including that of the Greeks and Romans, Cleopatra's politics and trysts, Turkish pashas and Ottoman trade, and the more recent heyday of the British occupation. It remains an international and religious blend of Muslim and (Coptic) Christian peoples and architecture (there was also a thriving Jewish population, all but 8 of whom have moved to Israel).
Waterfront apartments a la Egyptian art deco
Trolley passes by a worn, early 20th century apartment building
Colorful walls of a mechanic shop
One of Alexandria's great claims to fame is the ancient Biblioteca Alexandrina, built by Ptolomey I in 331 BC, which housed the largest collection of written works until it was burned down - possibly- by Ceasar in his 48 BC conquest and then again later by invaders. In its glory the Biblioteca served as an academic Mecca, attracting scholars from around the world for lectures, debate, and research. In 2002 the library was completely rebuilt and is slowly being restocked with materials from around the world.
Inscriptions of languages from around the world
Alexandrina Biblioteka, surrounded by a cool reflecting pool
Most of the library is actually underground, shielded overhead by a triangular glass roof surrounded by a calming reflecting pool. A collage of foreign scripts are carved into the outter wall, representing the original decor of languages from every known source on earth (at the time). Inside are several climate controlled levels of books and museums, as well as crowds of respectfully silent university students busy with research. We spent several hours exploring the books, many of which are in English.
Interior of the Biblioteca Alexandrina
On the west tip of Alexandria's bay sits the Citadel of Qaitbay, built in the 1400's. It lies directly atop the crumbled ruins of the world's first lighthouse, the Pharos of Alexandria, a 400 foot-ish red granite pillar. It was commissioned by Ptolemy I in effort to guide sailing ships away from the dangerously rocky shore. The pillar was later fitted with a gas-fed oil lamp and copper reflecting boards, so impressive it has been deemed one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. Unfortunately, the pillar tumbled during an earthquake in the 13th century, and much of the remains were either quarried for the construction of the citadel or remain sunken in the water's depths.
Boats along the waterfront, citadel in the background
Cafe de la Paix, staging a century of stories along the waterfront
Alexandria's architecture also alludes to the large bourgoise class of the early 20th century. The city had grown in importance and wealth throughout the reign of the Ottomans thanks to its strategic port, drawing in entrepeneurs, businessmen, artists, and laborers from countries around the Mediterranean. Classic, dark wood cafes line the seafront, such as Athenos, where well to do Greek ladies used to congregate with their Turkish suitors. Nearby sits one of the city's grandest mosques, Abul Abbas, is another testament to Alexandria's long history of immigrants: built in the 17th century by Algerians, it sits atop the tomb of a 13th century Andalusian sufi saint whose family fled Spain for religious freedom.
Abul Abbas dome
Teak carved windows of Abul Abbas Mosque (Ottoman style of the 1700's)
El-Mursi Abul Abbas Mosque
Nearby is the Cecil Hotel, probably the finest and oldest accomodation thriving over the last century. The early wooden elevator boxes are still in use, connecting patrons to the terrace where a Chinese and Thai restaurant dishes up exotic foods. Awesome view of the seafront and adjacent park from the top.
Entering an elegant, wooden elevator at the Cecil Hotel
View of the park and waterfront from Cecil's rooftop
Cecil is set a the edge of Saad Zaghlul Square, and the Turkish neighborhood, whose entrance is marked by a park and statue of the politician, Saad Zaghlul. On the back of the standing effendy sits a mysterious woman with a Coptic cross. (no one could explain to me who she is)
Cecil Hotel and (silhouette) statue of Saad Zaghloul, an Egyptian politician
Coptic lady adjoined to Saad Zaghloul's statue
In one of the nearby neighborhoods is another park, Muhammed Ali square. Its central statue depicts the great Albanian commander who, after declaring himself ruler of Egypt in the early 1800's, actually stole the throne by inviting all of the current Mamluk leaders and nobles to a lavish banquet and then murdering them en masse. Such gumpshun!
Muhammed Ali statue
Statue of Muhammed Ali, Alexandria's Albanian tyrant
My bike, heavily laden with mahmoul (date cookies)
Chris and I spent two days wandering and cycling around town, visiting sites, shopping in the street markets, picnicing along the waterfront, and sipping coffee in style. In the evenings we went out with Shehab, who showed us some of the best spots in town. I am such an advocate of couchsurfing, especially when it brings us into the lives of wonderful people, and changes our whole experience from feeling like outsider yuppie tourists to that of visiting a long-time friend. Shehab also introduced us to some of his equally amazing friends, with whom we shared several rounds of delicious juice concoctions from an outdoor stall.
Cappucino from Cafe Brasil, where chic Alexandrians sipped imported beans in style
I will miss these glorious, run of the mill produce markets
We stopped off for some cheese, next to the cured olive buckets
Loading up on bananas and oranges!
With Shehab, Ibrahim, and friends, slurping mango drinks at the juice bar
The first night we were 'surfing' with a young guy from New Jersey, who currently studies in Israel. Together we went out to an iconic fish restaurant, something Alexandrians pride themselves on. Although we chose entrees, our table was already full of delicious appetizers- a half dozen plates of cheese and vegetable dips, salads, and fresh rolls, so we were stuffed before the main course arrived.
Fresh fish! Right from the sea!
Dinner with Shehab and Jeremy; a tableful of mezzes (dips and salads)
Another night Shehab took us with some friends to eat Egyptian pizzas, before again slurping several cups of fresh juice. Egyptian style pizzas are the same as Turkish style, a thin pastry rolled out, topped with cheese and veggies, then folded up and baked. The regular pizzas are amazing, big pies with thick crust and almost always less than $4! Take THAT Dominoes!
Eating Egyptian pizzas with Ibrahim and Shehab
Sheep and goats eating fodder in the city!
One of my favorite past times while traveling is always to explore the markets-- including regular street markets where people do their day to day shopping. I love the activity here- people bustling around with produce bags, greeting friends and shopkeepers, lots of bright colors... We came across dates from the nearby Siwa Oasis, set up on a pedestal with a bowlful of frankinscence burning to keep the bees away (which also makes the dates smell nice). Crowds of people waiting for bread from the goverment bakery. This is always a spectacle, because people fight to get to the front before the bread runs out. Once claimed, people lay out their bootie on the sidewalk or cars to let the pides air dry, lest they get damp with condensation.
Typical street, people out shopping and chatting
Yummy strawberries! 4 EP per kilo (roughly $1.15 per pound)
Dates from the Siwa Oasis, curing in frankinscence smoke...
Always heavy crowds outside the bread shop
Freshly baked pide is spread out so that they don't get soggy with condensation
Rabbits and eggs for sale at the market (I think they are both eaten)
Hidden among one of the market streets, Chris and I came across an old spice shop. Outfront were bags of dried teas and seeds, with rows and rows of canisters and bins inside, full of mysterious herbs and powders. This is the type of place you'd find a monkey's paw. I went to great length to explain to the keeper that I wanted frankinscence, using elaborate and goofy hand gestures to break our language barriers. Eventually, we found the right sack and I loaded up on a bagful of sap crystals. Supposedly it comes from Saudi, however I suspect there are varieties from all over Africa that find their way to these bazars.
Hibiscus and other dried herbs for sale along the market street
Dried herbs in the spice shop, where I found a bag of frankinscence
Only Chris can eat ice cream for breakfast and not feel guilty...
School boys on break, also excited for ice cream
Chris and I enjoyed 3 days peacefully in Alexandria, simply being tourists and exploring the city. I can't get over how many layers of interesting history have been smashed together in such a small area! I love the mix of ancient, classic, and modern, and the extreme diversity that the city has seen, making Alexandria one of my favorite cities in the world. I envy anyone who studies/lives over here, moreso than Cairo because life is more relaxed here. Definitely hope to come back soon!
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