Distance: 27 km
Time elapsed: 1:33:00
Average speed: 17.4 km/ hr
Max speed: 67.9 km/ hr******
Temp: 19 C
Weather: Cool and breezy day, very chilly night
I woke before sunrise to the singsong sound of a nearby imam, bellowing verses of the Quran over the loudspeaker. It has happened several times along this trip, sometimes in the cities this wailing voice will make it's way into my dreams, finally disturbing me enough to half wake in confusion. Then I realize who is singing (reading really) and roll over to catch more zzz's.
Today we got up and slowly converged in the family's warm tv/kitchen room with Seleh, Ismael, and the older children. The younger ones begin school at 6:30 for the first shift and the older kids go after they finish, around 11, that is how crowded the neighborhoods are. Chris and I ate breakfast with the fathers and then departed as they left for work, only able to get their contact info as their names @ West Camp, Madaba.
Chris, Saleh, and his children
Already near the edge of town, we cycled up and over a few hills toward Ma'in, a small cluster of homes about 10 km away. Hoping to stock up on food for 3 days and nights of wilderness camping, we could only find one tiny market of junk food, though there was a dusty can of beans and a box of milk (did I mention my cereal gift from Eric?). Chris got a few snickers bars and we had enough fruit and pide so we biked on.
Over a few more steep climbs we found ourselves suddenly along a ridge, overlooking a vast sandy brown valley. From here on out we sailed, mostly downhill, flying at our fastest speed yet of 68 km/hr!
Chris zooms through the desert
At the turn to the falls we debated awhile about biking down the steep 3 km stretch and having to backtrack later in the dark (not my vote) or leaving the bikes uphill and taking necessary supplies with us. We decided to lock the bikes in shallow holes up near some electric poles, and just as we began walking a car pulled over to drive us down.
Biking back uphill would have been very, very annoying
The entrance to the springs complex (which is now a hotel resort) set us back 15 JD a piece ($21), which is outrageous considering the facilities. But still worth it; we soaked in the giant waterfall and pools for a full six hours, emerging as pruned up (but relaxed) sacks of wrinkles.
Hammamat Ma'in falls
There are 3 waterfalls in the complex: 1 public (where we hung out, along with several pot bellied men, no women), 1 family fall (where a few women took pictures but we never saw children there), and 1 for ladies. I envisioned this females-only area to be a scene not unlike the ancient Turkish baths, unhindered women lounging in their skivvies, frolicking in the freedom of malelessness. I said See ya to chris and began marching up the path, approaching a small steaming stream crossing the road with a row of older women soaking their feet. They sat stifly, fully covered in heavy coats and scarves, only bare from the ankles down. I timidly stepped passed the line and up to a gate labeled Ladies Waterfall, aha! So they are hidden behind closed walls, of course. I pushed open the rusty gate to see an enormous waterfall cascading into a wide, semi shallow pool. But no women. Nobody. I guess the ladies prefer soaking in the street rather than a private tub, weird.
Ladies' waterfall (where are the women??)
I quickly U-turned and joined chris back at the public fall, where we stayed even well after sun set. We rotated frequently between sitting under the pounding water, which is supposed to feel like a massage (not for me, it felt like being sprayed with a firehose), swimming around the two lower pools, and soaking in the sauna cave above, where the source of the bubbling water emerges.
Hot waterfall pounding massage
The moon rose from behind the canyon walls, helping to illuminate the area. We picnicked on our remaining hummus and pide, as well as some boiled eggs a Korean man pulled out of a basket at the spring source. So that's why hot springs are stinky!
Moonrise over the waterfall
Finally, closing time (9:30) drew near, we hopped out and shuffled up to the changing room to put on dry clothes. Getting out of hot water is always cold, but getting out of hot water at night in the desert is really cold! We had just walked out to the empty parking lot when the last car turned to leave, thankfully they pulled over and offered us a ride. The passengers definitely thought we were a little crazy to be walking up to a deserted highway so late in the night, until we explained we are camping and our stuff was stored up the hill. They let us out, pulled away, and seconds later returned, jumping out to shove oranges and a pomello in our hands before wishing us a good night.
This is the only highway I've comfortable slept near, probably because we set the tent on a plateau well above an almost completely empty road. After all that soaking it was pretty easy to drift off to sleep...
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