We thought we could make it all the way to Damascus by nightfall, but found ourselves caught half way en route for the night.
What happened is that we caught a few rides going short distances along the Dier Ez Zor- Damascus highway, finally ending up in a small truck with a friendly guy heading to work. He and his brother take turns running one of the roadside cafes near the Iraq border, at crossroads between Homs, Damascus, Dier Ez Zor, and Iraq. While in the back of one of the trucks we noticed what looked to be border signs to Iraq-- our truck was crossing! Luckily one of the front passenegers got out and waved goodbye, heading home on his own; we flipped a U-ie and drove away. I saw Iraqi soil... it looked a lot like Syria!
Baghdad Cafe, crossroads to the border
Our benevolent driver friend, Hussein, told us he would stay the night at the cafe and go to Damascus the next morning, so we should stay with him and ride together later. Without any concrete plans we decided that would be fun, so we joined his brother and some of their friends for a night of arghile, plenty of food, and music videos.
Bedouin lounge, perfect for a late afternoon cup of cardamon roasted kaway
Behind the cafe is a pen full of various poultry: chickens, ducks, and pigeons. I'm not sure how much pigeon is really eaten around here, but evidently some. At least its locally grown!
Feeding ducks behind the cafe (this is local organic)
After the sun set and the cold desert wind kicked up, we added some extra layers. Partly to be funny and partly because they are warm, Chris and I even donned their extra bedouin clothes. Hussein wrapped Chris up in the tradional checkered kufia (sometimes called shmell in Syria) while I pulled on a tattered, beaded womens' jalaba.
Bedouin Team Jassler
One of Hussein's friends is particlarly talented on the oud, a pear-shaped, double-stringed Arab guitar. We sat on the floor pillows, smoking arghile and listening to him strum away for a few hours, intermittently stuffing our faces with plates of seeds and nuts and fruit that kept appearing.
Our host impresses us with his oud playing
Always arghile time with the guys
We stayed up well into the night, not wanting to leave the music and arghile, but eventually feeling our eyes drooping as our blood sugar slumped. This pattern of going to bed at 6 pm or staying up until 2-3 am is really fun, but physically tough....
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