Crusader Krak (Al-Hosn Citadel)

Our campground was perfect, isolated, and let us wake to the sunrise over the valley; however, I still didnt sleep a wink. When camping I rarely sleep at all, almost always suffering insomnia, though I don't know why. I watched the moon slowly crawl across the sky, until the blue light faded to pink and orange.

Awesome campspot!

We had a few hours to kill before the castle opened, so chris slept a bit later while I sat at the cliff edge, watching the slumbering town. Yesterday we came across many cactus fruit, which are undoubtedly the most difficult, painful fruit to eat-- but very tasty. Like a surgeon, I carefully cut apart the thick flesh to extract it's sweet center, trying very hard to guard my fingers from the invisible, hairlike thorns. Unsuccessful.

Watching the sleepy town from our hilltop

Once packed up and inside the castle, we followed it's outer cooridor past an inner moat, underground hamams, and guard towers, then climbed up on the walls for views of the outside valley and larger inner fortress.

Looking at the inner citadel from the outer citadel

Sunshafts in the hamam

All-purpose storerooms, lookout posts, kitchen space and who knows what else

Al-Hosn citadel is one of the most impressive crusader castles (according to CS Laurence but I agree), dating to the 11th century and later taken over by Islamic forces under Mamluk Baybars in the late 1200s. It's enormous size allowed for over 4000 troops to fit inside, with many large stables to accomodate their horses.

One of 2 stables, roomy enough for 2000 horses

Christian crusader motifs outside the chapel

Valley and outer citadel view from the guard tower

After soaking up as much crusaderness and valley views as we could handle, Chris and I coasted down the steep, winding hill toward the highway. The road cuts through a narrow, congested town full of pickup trucks and children. All of the little boys were armed with cheap plastic rifles, which I found highly disturbing. Chris assures me that he played with toy guns when he was young, but it still seems odd that every single boy in town has a gun and is practicing/ learning how to shoot and kill (this is not a Syrian or Arab comment, but my criticism of how boys are socialized).

Overlooking the castle square from the guard tower

One of many stone cooridors to explore

Another great view, its enormous!

Anyway, we left the boys and town, dodging their tiny plastic bullets (only one hit me) and found our way back to the tree-lined autostrade. Chris befriended some guys on their front porch, likely gathering for Eid celebrations, who let him pick some oranges from their tree. We took the fruits to a thick patch of trees, sitting in the shade to rest and enjoy the quiet fields before heading to the highway.

Biking dowhill is muuuuch easier...