Aleppo Old and New

Kilis to Aleppo
Distance: 71 km
Time: 2:42:00
Ave/ Max speeds: 24 km/hr and 48 km/hr
Temp: 32 C
Weather: Hot and dusty!

Aleppo is said to be the world's longest continually inhabited city in the world, dating back to the 18th century BC. In the central Old Quarter sits a large citadel, adjacent to one of many entrances to the souk. Chris and I spent days wandering the many streets and offshoots of covered market stalls, mosques (like all tourist women I had to put on the full body dress, not a burka but I did feel like a walking laundry sack), and khans (caravanserais).

Delivery in the suq


Artfully arranged spices for sale in the suq

Pancake stall-- filled with sweet cream to go!

One day we wandered the nearby Christian quarter, full of Greek, Amernian, and Syrian churches, as well as some of the beautifully restored houses. Like the riads in Morocco, these former palaces belonged to wealthy families (Christians were the upper class) and now serve as hotels and restaurants.

Narrow streets of the Christian Quarter

Inside one of the beautifully restored bait(s) of the Christian Quarter

Chris gets his fill of long-awaited humos

The best part of our Aleppo experience was really the family we stayed with. French-Tunisian-Vietnamese, their father is a manager for Carrefour and they move around the Middle East every few years, previously residing in Qatar, Dubai, and Abu Dabi. Bea, the mother, regaled us with many stories of expat life in the Arab world, as well as the efforts of raising children there (school, activities, social life, etc.) and her own family's diverse roots.


Hamam domes inside the citadel


Chris and Zakaria sketching in the citadel

The family also has a housemaid, Nissa, from Sri Lanka. We fell in love with Nissa immediately, because of her outrageously light hearted nature and constant laughter. She came along with the family from Qatar, where her husband still works, and someday will retire to her home and family in Sri Lanka.


Drinking fruit smoothies with Nissa in the suq

The first time in the souk Bea and her son accompanied us, stopping in Suq Al-Saboun, the soap warehouse, en route to the citadel. This is where Aleppo's famous linseed olive oil bars are produced and stored to mature for two years before being sold in the souk or exported to specialty stores across Europe.


Chris and Zakaria exploring Suq Al-Saboun, the soap suq


Ageing linseed-olive oil bars, resting for 2 years until brown

Next stop to the citadel, a fortress surrounded by a dry moat. The outer walls and some buildings inside have been restored, worn not only from the damages of time but also an earthquake in the late 19th century. We wandered the crumbling ruins, hamam, and restored king and queens's palace (which is sometimes used by the president for banquets) under the midday sun, then peeled ourselves out to a nearby cafe.


Entering the citadel (just as my battery failed...!)


Large mihrab inside the citadel

Another day we explored the souk and downtown with Nissa, happily stopping in many shops with her while she bought clothes for her family. For the third time we drank cups of freshly blended fruit juice from Chris' favorite stall, then wandered outdoors to exchange money. Oddly, none of the banks or exchange offices would switch Syrian pounds into Euros. We were baffled as they each turned us away, but eventually a shop relented.


Wandering the Great Omayya Mosque of Aleppo with Nissa, built by the Umayyid Caliphate in the Damascene style (circa 7th cent)

Shopping for veggies (Nissa not shown) in Aleppo's outdoor market

Unexpectedly, Chris and I stayed 5 days with the family in Aleppo. We really enjoyed taking part in their life and family, another peak into the expat world, and also having a break. I must admit that our almost-20 day hiatus really hindered my energy and momentum. I hope that more wonderful couchsurfing experiences in Syria will revive my spirits.

Christian martyrs sister statue in the Christian Quarter

Another opulant bait of the Christiant Quarter, now hotel-restaurant (did I mention the Christians were the wealthier class?)