Heroic Antep

Gaziantep (the prefix Gazi meaning heroic, or victorious, was awarded to the city of Antep in 1921) is known for one thing: fıstık. Surrounded on all sides by what would otherwise be a barren wasteland, instead there are endless pistachio plantations in all directions.


Upclose and personal with Antep's fıstık

The first 30 or so km out of Urfa are dry, flat, and empty, then suddenly wide fields of corn (and cotton evidently, judging by the army of overstuffed cotton trucks barreling down the highway) pop up, very much the landscapes of Iowa...


Having a cotton pickin' good time!

Gaziantep is said to be one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, encompassed over the centuries within the Hittite, Roman, Persian, Assyrian, Armenian, Umayyad, Seljuk, Mongol, and Ottoman empires (plus many more). The old town itself is full of pink and black stone-cut mosques dating back to the 11th century. In some ways they are similar to the black and white cut designs prominent in nearby Diyarbakir, however upon closer inspection the pink stone and inner structures, as well as ornately cut wooden minarets, are unique.

Pink and black entrance to the Şirvani Camii


Interior of one of Antep's unique mosques

There is also a central fortress, dolled up with lifesize bronze statues of war heroes, and harbors little more than a museum inside. It still boasts a drawbridge over the now-dry moat, though the view over Antep's metropolis, congested with pollution and traffic, pales in comparison to Urfa's fortress panorama...


Turkish pride...

Restored drawbridge over the moat

We couchsurfed with an American girl, Devon, who teaches English at the university and lives in a small but cozy nearby flat. Some meals we shared were cooked, others take-out, and all eaten Kurdish/ family style on the floor.


Eating Kurdish style with Devon

At one point we accidentally stumbled into Antep's Culinary Museum, an old house that has been restored with modern rooms displaying photos and descriptions of Gaziantep's extravagant cuisine. Actually, it's more like large printed menues mounted on the walls, but of course interesting (we must be foodies!) and mouthwatering by the end. I never knew how many ways pistachios can be manipulated!

Chris chows down at a crowded kebab stall, in the heart of Antep's shopping district, while a dj across the street blares an arab-electro mix whose lyrics scream facebook, facebook...! repeatedly

Ahh that brings me back to Gaziantep's famous fıstık. I have been hearing for weeks now about this place, the land of baklava. Maraş specializes in dondurma (so thick it must be eaten with a knife and fork), Antakya has kadayfe, Silifke produces amazing yoğurt... I've been eagerly waiting to sample the tatli here more than any other, and, with over 180 baklavasies in town I should have plenty to choose from.

However, I sadly realized (2+2= 4) that the gooey, crunchy, flaky baklava pastries that I have developed an addiction to (perhaps Alexi or Meghan can attest from our adventures in Shqiperia), when filled with pistachio are simply not up to par. In fact, I vehemently detest fıstık bakalava. Ruined I say! To rub salt in the wound of my utter disappointment, each and every Antep shop proudly displays large windows full of the green nutty sweets, never swaying in variety (blasphemy! taboo!). I long for the succulently nutty walnut bakalava, but I'm trapped in a city of naysayers...


One of 180 baklava shops around town, do you prefer fıstık, fıstık, or perhaps some lovely fıstık?

On the other hand, Chris LOVES all things fıstık and totally went to town on them. I secretly hoped he could eat enough to gain a pound or two, but that boy's metabolism is like a racehorse!


Chris digs in to MADO dondurma(ice cream), note the knife and fork!

Final thank you's to Devon, who shared her living room and library of English books for the weekend, then we hit the road to Kilis, Syria's closest border town.