More coastal fun

Teos- Ozdere

Distance: 43 km
Time elapsed: 3 hrs 37 min
Average speed: 11.2 km/ hr
Max speed: 44.4 km/ hr
Temp: 39 C


Biking gloves: $6
Chinese military hat: $1.25
Front pannier compartment of medical supplies, pills, vitamins, hand sanitizer, mints, floss, chapstick : $20
Tube patch check: 5 TYL (-$3)
Being rescued from the side of a hot, dusty road in midday heat with no water, and spending the afternoon hanging out with Turkish family and eating a delicious homecooked meal: priceless


Morning sunrise over the water...


Morning on the coast (Chris has bright eyes)

We were super early risers this morning, getting packed up and out by about 7. There was no road out of the bay so we had to walk along a dirt farming path toward the opposite resorts, then began the winding coastal road. Beautiful views passing in and out of deserted coves, though a bit tough with the hills. By 9:30 Chris started having tire issues again. We took it off and found a tiny shard of glass, then patched it up. About 10 minutes later another leak. 2 hours later we were still parked on the side of the road trying to get the patches to work, learning unfortunately that our spare tubes bought in Tirana don't fit his wheel (valve too wide).


Chris' new tan line. I'm trying to convince him to bike in a speedo.

Out of water and exhausted from the sun, we caught a lift in the back of a truck with a family from Izmir, heading to their summer home.


Thank you for sharing your pick up truck!

Together we went to the next town and they invited us for tea, where we spent a few hours learning some Turkish words and exchanging family/ life info. By that, I mean hometowns, family size, school, jobs, etc. They seemed less concerned wıth our exact family members and what we studied at university than Albanians typically are, but at least for conversation they asked a few details about our jobs and lives, etc.

Eventually we all gathered on the balcony, overlooking a mandarin grove and a few other summer apartments, to eat a late lunch. The only English speaker in their family is the youngest daughter, Gulce, who busily translated for everyone. She and her sister prepared a casserole of eggplant, onion, chicken, potatoes, and plenty of spices, alongside a trayful of etsiz cig kofte, a spicy vegetarian bulgar ball.


Gulce and her sis cooking up a (Turkish) storm

After 'linner' Chris and I began cycling again, hoping to make it as far as the beach at Pamacuk. The road was really rough so we could't keep up our speed, and the sun set before long. We did pass through an adorable beach town with very elegant, yet modest homes built in little neighborhoods. Almost all of them sported a red Turkish flag (many with Atatukr's face in front) and promptly at 7 pm everyone set up dinner on their front porches and ate family style.


From the park, you can see the flags

The last big town we passed through was Ozdere, a well lit, popular place where we rested and Chris ate a scoop of dondurma (ice cream). From there we couldn't get very far so we pulled into the first cove possible, which turned out to be a relaxed camp ground full of permanent tents. We parked ours near the water, in between two empty homes and called it a night.

Out of the city, into the village

Izmir- Teos

Distance: 63 km
Time elapsed: 3 hrs 55 min
Max speed: 40.9 km/ hr
Temp: 39 C
Weather: not terribly hot except for midday, fixing popped tire on
side of highway. Strong headwinds. Chilly and windy evening by water.

Despite being out so late at the Internet cafe we managed to wake up at a decent hour and get going while it was still cool.

Everyone we had met from our hotel (mostly Syrian-Turkish families) was very excited to hear about our journey, offering a bed in their homes if make it to the east of the country (though we don't plan to, who knows?). As we departed, dragging our bikes and gear down the front stairs, they and other curious onlookers and nearby cafe propriators wished us a safe journey.


Chris samples fresh peach and blackberry juice as we leave town

The road out of town stretched ajacent to the water, passing through a few small towns along the way for about 25 km. Then we switched highways to a southern route, which was unfortunately in very bad condition. It was paved and had a good shoulder (and very few cars) but the quality of the asphalt was awful.

A note on asphalt: I am amazed at how many varieties of asphalt there are. From the passenger seat of a car you'd never know how the tar's texture and quality so drammatically effect a tire's efficiency and drag. I imagine a great deal of gas mileage is wasted by billions of cars everyday who are driving on low grade roads...


This is what a bad road looks like

Anyway except for Chris' flat tire, which somehow took an hour to fix on the side of the hot, dusty road, we pretty much made it down the coast with ease. Stopped in a few restaurants and gas stations to fill our bottles with su, bought some fruit from one of the beautiful roadside stalls in the village just before the beach, and even caught a wireless signal outside a middle-of-nowhere hotel resort.


Stocking up on village fruits

Our route took us past a small harbor town, Akkum, full of boats, mini markets for beach goers, and a well intentioned but sadly ignored park. Up around the corner we could see other popular beach coves packed with people and windsurfers.


Back on the water!

We continued around the mountain to Teos, a 3rd century BC archaeological site, once a prominant port town. Aren't they all prominent port towns? Now it's nothing but crumbled chunks of stone and two standing pillars hidden among an olive grove.


Once grand port city of Teos

Tonight: beach fire! We cooked up some lentils and couscous, relaxing as the few stragglers and fishermen left for the evening. Well fed, good sunset. Tomorrow we'll tackle the cove.


Chris prepares our fire by the sea!

Change of Plans

Kavala -> Izmir!

Distance: 25 km
Time elapsed: 1:45:00
Average speed: 14.3 km/ hr
Max speed: 48.7 km/ hr
Temp: 46 C
Weather: Blazing hot. Then A/C.

So... We started out yesterday morning in Kavala, intending to head across the highway to Alexandropolis and then hopefully across the Turkish border. Now we're in Izmir! Here's what happened:

Kavala, sadly, was the end of our coastal road, and we got on the long highway stretch toward Alexandroupoli. Ugh and yuck on to these major highway stretches with racing cars and reflecting heat, especially this road through the 'industrial area' factories. We ended up getting a short lift to a small town in between, then once again we attempted the highway, but Chris' chain broke. He flipped the bike and was fixing it when a Greek road worker pulled over and offered us a ride to the nearby town of Komotini. We took up his offer, fixed Chris' chain in a city park, and once again hit the highway.


Urban camping along the port.. final morning Greece


Morning tea to get us going...

Nowhere near Alexandroupoli, let alone the border, we took a pushim and stuck out our thumbs. Already 4 pm-- will we have to spend another night here? Then a semi pulled over! This guy was heading to Istanbul and did we want to go along? Heck yes!

His semi was empty so we tossed the bikes in back and hopped up front with him. I love hitching in semis because I'm amazed at how some of them are so shwanky, with plush interior beds and dozens of hidden cupboards for all their stuff. Some even have mini fridges under the bunk. Usually the interior decorations hint at their home country (flags, cross or Quranic tablets, etc.), and they always have an interesting supply of music.

So anyway, Hamet is Turkish and delivers textiles to Albania every three days. Albania! We start speaking Shqip and really hit off. At the border Chris and I get out and cross alone on bicycle, then meet him again on Turkish soil.


We made it!

Welcome to Turkey!! I'm so excited to be back. I had a great time in Greece but really I'm in love with Turkey and have been eagerly waiting to get back. I like the food and (can I say this publicly?) the people much better, and somehow it's like a breath of fresh air to be back in a more chaotic, less hoity EU country. Am I actually claiming Greece is more organized and developed? My opinion, yes.

Earlier in the day Chris and I decided we would bike straight down the coast and not over to Istanbul yet. We can take a train there later and break up the trip a bit. Plus Istanbul is super hot and crowded still, and staying seaside in the heat sounds much more appealing. So we told Hemat we'd get out at Keşan, and head down towards Canakkale, yes it's a plan..

On the other side Hamet tells us his friend Ramazan is heading down to Izmir, and he speaks shqip also. Ramazan's semi is packed full so we strap the bikes underneath with the spare tires (scary!!) and when we're all sure they won't fall down or get hit the three of us pile up front and get moving. I didn't realize how far Izmir really is from the border. We talk with Ramazan for a few hours, learn all about his Albania-Turkey supply route (he delivers exported spices from Laç to Turkey!), board the ferry and cross the channel at Gelibolu, and kept riding into the night.


Get them bikes hooked in nice and tight...

At some point I fell asleep, waking for a midnight pit stop at a çorba (soup) place. We hadn't eaten since maybe 2 so Chris and I were starving. Ramazan ordered me a yellow vegetarian soup, Chris got grilled chicken, and we stuffed ourselves silly with delicously hot, fluffy pide bread. So yummy. Ramazan refused to eat it because he would get sleepy, but my theory was Yeah bring on the carb coma and I'll see y'all in the morning!

And that's just what we did. Somehow Ramazan tanked on for several more hours, only pulling over around 2 for an hour of sleep before starting again and reaching the city at sunrise. It was so fun to sleep in the semi! Chris climbed up into the bunk above me and Ramazan stretched out across the seats; such a funny trio!

He dropped us at the outskirts and we hesitantly rode up on the crowded freeway to get ın closer to the center. We found an awesomely grungy, cheap hotel room overlooking a beautiful street full of fruıt stalls and men playing backgammon. The building seems to be some formerly dazzling mansion that has completely fallen in ruins, and there are many Turkish-Syrian families living there permanently.


Hotel lobby, elegance for a mere 10 TL per night


Our beautiful room! haha but a good view!

After lovely bucket showers Chris and I wandered the city for hours, through the pazar, around an amazıngly restored han that now is full of workshop studios and bustling cafes, down by the waterfront to watch the ferries come and go... And of course we couldn't help getting on our bikes and climbing the steep neighborhood streets to the castle overlooking the city.


Bustling cafe inside the caravanserrai


Near the water front


Pizzaboat lunch!

We missed sunset, unfortunately, because we couldn't get away from pestering kids, but did get to sit at the edge of the road and listen as all the city's mosques as they did the night time call to prayer.



Hilltop fortress from Alexander the Great, now covered in colorful buildıngs


We dragged our bikes up some seriously steep streets, getting funny looks from the locals


Chris with the city view behind

After flying back down the mountain we cruised over to the Kulture Park to see the summer nights festivities, then to the waterfront to find an internet cafe. I think the streets must be empty by now, and we better get back to our room soon. Tomorrow we're hoping to get an early start out along the coast toward Teas... Posting ın a few days!

Super Awesome Unknown Town (shh!)

Today was sort of a rest day. It wasn't planned but we were surprised to find ourselves in a town that caught our eyes on our way to Turkey last winter and wanted to stay the night.


Our bus passed right under the aquaduct around 2 am...

Kavala is not UNESCO, but definitely should be! There is an ancient castle overlooking a port and bay, with a giant stone aquaduct extending out from the side.

We woke this morning on the bright and sunny beach, as a Greek fisherman arrived and set up his poles next to us, eager to claim his catch. Chris slept awhile longer while I took a xhiro around the bay to the harbor on the far end, admiring the boats. My legs were confused by the lack of full pivotal motion. ;)


Kalimera on the beach!

Once geared-up we biked up around to the next cove, stopping at a lookout point to do stetches. We're really bad about stretching.


We're so limber! (Must be all that stretching...)

Around the corner the city appeared before us, and the entrance to a public beach with showers caught our eyes- ahh! Showers! Amazingly lucky; we parked off to the left where there were surprisingly few people, washed our dirty, stinky clothes in the public spiket, and jumped into the warm clear water. So warm! No wonder foreigners flock here (well not here, the north of Greece is pretty well ignored).

After we properly swam/ sun bathed/ and washed back up we went to the old town. The tightly compacted homes are clustered up steep narrow, alleys of cobblestone - so much like Gjiro, except with tiny cement homes instead of the lofty stone mansions.


Harbor lookout from castle walls

Inside the castle the view over the bay is gorgeous. We explored the remains and watched the sun set from atop the guard tower, then crossed to the other side wall and saw a full moon rise up from the ocean's horizon. To live here and have a balcony lookout would be amazing ...


Moonrise over the backside of Kavala

Strolling down through the old town alleys we found ourselves at a cafe called Playthings, where the young and hip sip hard drinks or Nescafes while playing all kinds of 'get together' games. You know like Taboo or Brain Twisters or whatever their Greek versions are. The interior decor vividly reflected the whole game theme by actually nailing gameboxes all over the walls; even the menu was a series of thick color coded cards to match up so that you can see the drinks lists and prices.


Hmm but which drink goes where?

We spent a few hours there talking with the staff, who had been kind enough to let us stash our bags in the cleaning closet while we went to the castle. They were all super nice, college-age, some hoping to study abroad. One ofthe guys turned to me and asked in all seriousness What do you think of when you hear Macedonia? And then (not liking my country description answer) proceeded to tell me hıs heartsob version of history and But WE had that name first! (insert pout). Neither Chris nor I had the heart to tell him we couldn't really care less and that really in the scale of world political issues this doesn't register for us.


Chris overlooking the port from the castletop

Time flew by! Before we knew it, it was after midnight and we had yet to go find a camp spot. We mirupafshimed the town and headed up around to the next cove, a quiet one with a harbor. We're set up underneath two pine trees in a quiet pocket park, though it's a very hot and humid night so sleep might still be a challenge.

Ride of Paradise

Appalonia -> Nea Perames (almost Kavala)

Distance: 99.99 km
Time elapsed: 5:53:00
Max speed: 51.5 km/hr
Temp: 32C
Weather: Nice and cool (we rode only morning until mid afternoon and evening-night)

Today all things came up Team Jassler.

Such a spectacular day- I mean one of the top 5 best biking experiences of my life!

First, Chris and I woke early with the sun rising over the valley. After tea and packing camp, we set off for a cool morning through the last edge of valley, into the mountains (which strongly resemble Bainbridge Island, all luscious and green), and then smack dab along the coast. The road was perfectly fit with a shoulder, very little traffic, and slightly elevated hills so that we didn't have to climb too hard but got to coast down a bit.


Early morning camp


We're ready to ride!

The coastline is natural (ie not award winning but not destroyed) and almost deserted, save for the few random people every so often coming out of their summer homes set back up in the hills. Only once did we pass through one of those ugly developed tourist towns covered in cement and sea-to-cafe umbrella chairs. (we biked quickly)

Then, oh it gets better, the road curved inland a bit and suddenly we were facing an enormous lion statue: the Lion of Amfipolis. One of Alexander's comrades who built a city... The remains were found by soldiers during the Balkan War. Ok cool, so ancient lion, Macedonian tombs, Byzantine tower. Pretty good roadside attractions.


Lion of Amfipolis, city guard

But then! We were looping back to the coast and Chris notices endless fields of almond trees to the right! They are ripe, so we stop and fill some bags. Success! Best biking food ever!

And then, not 10 minutes later we come across a peach tree sticking out, actually tipping over because it's so heavy with fruit. Too bad we only had one bag left.



Peaches of gold

By now it's getting hot; we pull over on an empty stretch of sand, pop the tent for shade and snooze ahwile. We'd gone 60 km so far but didn't feel exhausted, just hot. Later we cracked the almonds and threw the shells around like we were rolling in money. Diamonds I tell you.


Chris is so happy he's doing flips!

When the heat subsides, we started round two. The road continues right up along the sand, cove after cove, and eventually the sun sets behind us. The moon came up and we're game for a little night riding. Chris put on his reflective vest and lights and we cruised for another few hours, then when we finally tuckered out we flipped the bikes over and rolled out our sleeping bag right on the beach.

Seriously the coolest day ever.

The Strong Live On

Thessaloniki -> Nea Appalonia

Distance:80 km
Time elapsed: 4:37:00
Max speed:51 km/hr
Temp: 45 C
Weather: mid-day super intense highway heat, cool evening

I'm back on my feet! This morning I woke up ravaged and chowed down on a hearty scrambled egg-with-brown bread-breakfast. How good to taste food!

Thus, we got a late start. Chris and I said goodbyes to Maria and the Turkish hippie girls now surfing her couches (like a big dorm really), then cruised down the hill toward a bike shop. Some nice Greek biker huys we found sipping Nescafe (really how would they get along without it?) were so excited for our trip they even guided us through Thessalonik's thick traffic to get there. We spent a good hour or two inside, tuning chris' bike up and trying to fix a few things.

Aired-up, greased-up, we took off in the dead of hot afternoon heat (bad choice why does this happen?) toward the highway. Yuck, if there is one thing I'm gonna recommend for future bikers is to avoid highway entrances at 2 pm like the plague.

Well eventually, 25 km later, we were free from city traffic, on the
old highway passing through the valley. Ahh this is what I signed up for!


Beautiful valley-- looks like Korce!

The road gently glided through deserted villages and automatically watered fields (perhaps I will regail you with my bitter resentment for greek industrial farming and the US' economic development plans later), lined with blackberry bushes and overlookıng 2 large lakes to our left. The evening was cool so we continued until sunset, then stopped in a village big enough to support 5 cafes but not a single shop or fruit stand(??). Chris ate souvlaki (meat on a stick) and we split the most delicious salad and fresh bread. While eating we overheard the guys at the table adjacent to us gambling in Shqip! I paid the bill and politely inquired about where they were from, explaining that we are
americans formely living in Albania. Almost knocked them out of their
chairs!


Stopped next to one of a zillion shrines along the road

Just after leaving the village we stumbled upon a perfect camp spot with picnic tables and a spring. Setting up now- fly free hooray! Mmm rest time...

Round Two!

Grevena to Thessaloniki


Distance: 72 km
Time elapsed: 5 hs 21 min
Average speed: 11 km/ hr
Max speed: 59 km/ hr
Temp: 39 C
Weather: still hot, highway crosswinds

Escaped the flies!

Finally out of the mountains. I'm quite sure that jerk police officer was trying to kill us by forcing us to take this road. All those rumor about asshole Greek cops, yeah, he fit the bill.

Anyway, we got about 10 km uphill before sticking out thumbs and hitching a lift to town, Grevena, where we ate a picnic breakfast outside a Dia grocery store. Oddly enough a cop gave us the ride and he was super nice...

So we meandered through town asking people if it's illegal to bike on the highway. Everyone seemed to agree it's not, but that well yeah they might give us trouble. Well I am not about to spend another day winding up switchbacks so we biked up to the highway entrance and hitched a ride with a young couple with an empty van! Sweet victory. I guess there will be days when we simply have to give in to the convenience of motor power.

They dropped us near the turn for their village, 25km outside Thessaloniki. Coming in was pretty straightforward- over the steep bridges, past the stinky port, until eventually the road becomes narrow and peppered with traffic signals.

Down by the waterfront we could finally relax. Chris ate Pizza Hut next to the old Turkish prison tower. I was busy contacting our CS hostess, but in hindsight I should have eaten also because I got sick later on, probably from stressing my body out so much.


Turkish (built prison) at nightfall

We're staying with a Greek girl, Maria, along with 4 Polish girls and a French couple. I really like her because she's begun a career selling jewelry professionally on Etsy and is an advocate for the Greek anarchist movement. Maria is generously hosting us all at her house up in the old town, another city within the city with steep, winding alleys and Ottoman architecture.


Maria's porch-- so Ottoman!


The first night we all walked down to the tower/water front, where foreigners sell trinkets and bad artwork. There we circled-up and swapped logistics about each of our travel plans and our lives back home. Maria, Chris, and I went in search of food and found Cyprus-style sandwiches. I think my body went into food shock because by the time we got uphill and home I was doubled over in pain, then bedridden for 2 days solid.

Have I mentioned how great Maria is? Not only did she let me wither on her couch for 48 hours, occasionally rising to puke all over her bathroom, but she did it with a smile. ;) Chris has decided I'd better get better, because he doesn't want to go sell his artwork along the boardwalk alone (he sold 2 prints the first night!)


Chris selling art along the boardwalk

I'll get better soon-- sink or swim right?? I'll let you know how tomorrow turns out...

Round Two

Ioanina to Greneva

Distance: 72 km
Time elapsed: 5 hs 21 min
Average speed: 11 km/ hr
Max speed: 59 km/ hr
Temp: 39 C
Weather: Hot! Sweltering summer heat reflecting off highway, low breeze

We woke to the sound of dogs barking outside our tent at dawn. No, they were barking all night but at dawn we gave up on the chance of getting more rest and decided to pack up . I made us tea with the bumbola while Chris took down then tent and soon after we were on our way, leisurely biking the lakefront bike path.


In the morning Ioannina is perfect; cool breezes and fragrantly blooming plants and flowers, still sleeping cafes hinting at a latenight party, fellow morning joggers in their sweatsuits... I remember jogging this path in the midst of the chilly winter when Cam and Donna came to visit, and have probably been to this lake a dozen times over the last two years. I felt a hint of nostalgia wondering if I'd ever get to see it again...


Last look at Ioannina!

Eventually we hit the highway on-ramp. This new road was completed two years ago, shaving off 30 km from the old winding village roads. With superwide shoulders and bypassing tunnels, it would be great to swiftly cross. Unfortunately, emergency patrol didn't want us going through the tunnels so they gave us a lift to an exit for the old road, which was a solid 12 km uphill around the mountain.


Thank you Emergency Patrol

On the plus side: quiet and car-free, plenty of shady trees and blackberries to stop at, majestic views looking down over the valley below... But on the downside: badly worn road, exhaustively long switchbacks, traveling for 3 hours and going the same distance as 20 min by highway... The roads finally hooked up and we sped along, finally peaking the 40 km mountain pass and enjoying lengthy downhill roads.


Beautiful road! But has its downside...

However, emergency patrol found us again and insisted we take the winding old road. At this point we'd been out of water for 2 hours and were only 15 km of downhill gliding from town. We also never got to stop for lunch and by the late afternoon were feeling weak with exhaustion. Had they let us ride and follow behind we'd have
been fine, but instead they insisted we get off and take an uphill unpaved road out to a village. It was grueling.

Finally, in the end things turned out well and we found a nice abandoned campground next to an old church and with a spring. We washed our sweaty clothes, showered, filled our bottles, and pitched the tent for a badly needed night of rest.

We learned quickly enough why the campground was abandoned-- these weird swarms of flies- I mean thousands- are everywhere! They're engulfing us, forcing us to wear towels around our heads to keep them out of our eyes. I've never seen anything like it!

Sun is now up and were breaking camp, off for another day's ride. Well see how far we can get!

Maiden Voyage

Gjirokaster to Ioannina

Distance: 96 km
Elapsed Time: 6 hrs 18 min
Average Speed: 17 km/ hr
Max speed: 49 km/hr
Temp: high 37 C
Weather: Hot! Serious summmer heat, slight breeze

After a frantic day of goodbyes and tying up loose ends, bike assembling, and packing, Chris and I finally crash for 2 hours of sleep, then rose again for our long awaited departure out of Gjirokaster and Shqiperia altogether. Ryan (new pcv) and Fatos, our landlord, walked with us to the old pazar where we took some final photos and then to Cercis Topolli square where we would start. Kristina, our friend who is a journalist, even came to do a quick interview. As the sun rose over the Drino Valley Chris and I set off toward the border, teetering slightly with our bags.

Now, I'll be the first to admit we haven't followed the advice of our experienced biking friends and online blogs. Not because we didn't want to, some things just didn't work out the way we would have preferred. But heck we got bikes and bags and a tent so we will prevail!

The first 30 km out of town were flat, which should have been relatively comfortable had I not been lugging 40+ kilos of pannier weight with my breaks not locked slightly shut. (shume keq! I am suddenly regretting carrying extra bottles of sunscreen and camping food!)

After the border the hills began. Greece has a lot of newly paved highways, and through most areas we were able to stop and pick blackberries (yeah!)-- which was great because we need all the calories we can get. A lot of the hills we walked up, avash-avash being our motto, but loved flying down the other side and reaching speeds up to 49 km/hr. The midsummer afternoon heat was brutal so we stopped at a shady patch of grass and took a nap. Like Albania, Greece has an abundance of fresh water springs, so we stopped many times to fill our bottles and do our best to avoid heat stroke

Eventually, 12+ after our departure, we entered Ioannina, stopped in a sandwich shop to wash up and change clothes, and headed to the lake for a dinner picnic. I forgot what a nightlife they have here! Families and friends came out en mass after sunset to fill up the many water-side mega cafes with music and laughter. We popped our tent just outside the sound and crashed. Day one: success! Challenging is an understatement, but if shlepping a boat up and down 96 km of hills with this heat didn't kill us I'm pretty sure we can handle anything!

Welcome!

Countdown to bike trip is T-minus-12 days!

Chris and I will be couchsurfing/beach camping until our departure from Albania on August 17th. After that we'll be posting on the road, so come back for the story and pics! Until then, you can follow along with My Albanian Adventure by clicking the link on the left, or going to www.courtneyinalbania.blogspot.com


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