Anamur ruins and village life

One afternoon Chris and I biked out to the Anamur ruins, a cluster of 3rd century buildings and walls set out on the most southern tip of Turkish soil.


Anamur ruins

The three coolest things about these ruins that atually made them interesting to me (I get sick of the same amphitheater and agora scene after awhile) are:

1. The tiny entact odeon, haven't seen one around yet

2. The giant hamam actually had a roof and walls, enabling us to explore the old sauna and imagine what it would be like back in the day to come here and get nekkid


Bath house

3. There are bits of mosaic tiles popping out of the dirt everywhere! Usually mosaics are protected under tarps or moved to museums, it's cool to see these inkblot blobs of colorful squares the way they have been left, completely forgotten for centuries.


Mosaic blobs

Afterward we went swimming in the last cove, at the most southern tip of Turkish soil. There were a few groups of young boys around and some older guys skin diving, hoping to catch some balik.


Tiny cove at the very most southern tip


Local kids show Chris how to bucket shower

On another day Behlul and Arzu took us out to her parents' house in the village, just outside anamur town. Flashback to Albania! They live in an old do-si-do two story house, close to the camii (mosque), surrounded by plenty of kompşu (neighbors, kompşi Albanian) and gardens.


Nearby kompşu house with a grassroof

Peaking in through the window

Their house was built in the 60's, with many Ottoman features such as thick stone walls and automatic door locks with quick release buttons, similar to houses in Gjirokaster.

Rua, Behlul, and Chris

Arzu prepares the ekmek, thin sheets of tortilla style bread

However instead of a stone roof theirs was covered in grass! Arzu's parents sat on the roof terrace tearing up bits of sheep wool to stuff into pillows and floor pads, stopping only briefly for their separate prayer sessions.

Arzu's mother tearing up bits of sheared wool for pillow stuffing

Chris helps out

After thoroughly exploring and hanging out awhile we sat down for a feast, including dolma (stuffed peppers), homemade cheese, yogurt, fig jam, tomatoes, etc. Butter my butt and call me a biscuit this is soooo Albania!! No difference whatsoever.

Is this Albania? Sure tastes like it!

Ok that's a lie. The fig jam was really carmelized figs with almonds mixed in. Nese!

Chris and the family

Banana County

Alanya- Anamur

Distance: 33 km
Time elapsed: 2:05:00
Average speed: 16 km/ hr
Max speed: 41.6 km/ hr
Temp: 45 C
Weather: Hot day, but we biked in the cooler evening


They appeared sometime just before Alanya, huge swaths of densly packed muz (banana) plantations covering the hills all the way out to the water. East of Alanya, in the Anamur region (Anamur City most widely known for them) banana fronds can be seen everywhere, along with huge bundles of the yellow fingers dangling from roadside stands at least every mile or so. We bought our first bundle from a ridiculously awesome woman near the ocean.

Huge bundles of muz for sale roadside


Stopped for the bananas, stayed for the peppers!


Banana plantations all the way out to the water

After leaving our treehouse camp on the beach, and taking a short tea break at a nearby gas station, Chris and I began a long day of hills- into the mountains!!

Super comfy treehouse camping

The first stretch of coves proved beautiful as expected, then, coming around a final bend the town of Gazipaşa hit us like a slap in the face. Large plumes of burning garbage (and toxic smells of plastic fires), desolately dry landscape, industrial warehouses and enclosed banana mega greenhouses... By far the most depressing town I've seen so far.


La di da di da...! We have a LONG way to go still...!


BEFORE reaching Gazipaşa... loads of bananas!!

One thing we keep noticing are the banners advertising crop brands, such as F1 tomatoes or whatever their name is. I presume those are GMO varieties of seeds sold along with the necessary fertilizers and pesticides. Although most of the produce is delicious I can taste that the tomatoes are not natural, and I seriously wonder about the overall agricultural system. Maybe I'm just cynical.


Tomato patents

Finally past the town we began climbing uphill in the dead heat. Everything seemed to be brown and radiating staleness. On a whim I stuck out my thumb and a truck pulled over, graciously picking us up.

Our driver friend, Yusef, had the most startlingly clear blue eyes, reminding me of the Afghan girl Steve McCurry captured for National Graphic, only topaz blue instead of green. He took us for a tea break at an outdoor stall along the cliffs, filled with old, very curious men. Otherwise there was nothing along these mountain passes, just endless steep hills. Later we pulled over near some men resting on a cushioned platform. We didn't understand why we had stopped, but they beckoned us over to sit, and, without hesitating they filled up a soup bowl and tore apart strips of delicate, fresh tortilla. We sat with them an hour or two, Chris showed them his drawings and we generally conveyed who we are and what we're up to, all the while sipping bottomless glasses of piping hot çay.


Yusef and anonymous logger friends relaxing on the roadside platform

The men finally waved goodbye, suddenly starting for the hills where they are loggers. I was surprised to see the rest of the mountains are being heavily razed, stripped of their thick pine forests.

We left on our own from the platform, climbing hills and sailing down, passing many more logging zones, until the road finally descended toward a small cove with a few houses and outdoor restaurant. Swimming time!

Jumping into the cool clear water is such a luxury after 25 km in the
afternoon heat. I had been listening to an NPR story earlier about the east coast shark population, telling Chris about the increase in sightings (either people are reporting more often with better communications or the protected seals are flourishing and drawing in more predators, it's debatable) when all of the sudden a diver popped up from the water a few feet away. Chris, blinded without glasses, got spooked, it was all too hilariously perfect. The man stood up to walk ashore, carrying a spear gun and wearing a belt full of fish around his waste.


Behlul and his balik catch

I called a friendly merhaba! to him, commenting on the balik (fish). After talking awhile he asked where we planned to go, and when we said Anamur he happily exclaimed Come to my house!

Entering Anamur's valley

After finishing our swim and rinsing off at a nearby fountain, we tackled the last 25 km to town, an exhausting feat. Although it gets cooler in the afternoon the humidity is still draining, I feel like I'm wearing one of those full body sauna suits. We couldn't reach Behlul, our skin diving friend, from the gas station at the edge of town, so instead we walked down to an empty stretch of beach and rested on the sand, admiring the early rising moon.

Anamur moonrise, empty beach

The second time we did reach Behlul and got directions to meet him, in
the actual town 5 km down the road. Behlul took us to his house, where we met his wife, Arzu (means desire), and sleeping son, Rua. They call him the 'double child' because he has so much energy, something we learned later is too true!


Dinner on the balcony with Arzu

The first night we also met their friend Kadir, a very charismatic man who grew up in Germany and speaks impeccable English. They all turned out to be so lovely and hospitable, we ended up staying 3 days, enjoying many delicious meals on their balcony and stimulating conversations about life, politics, religion, food, and a million other things.

We had such a good time with Behlul and Arzu-- seriously such awesome people-- it was hard to say goodbye. I'm already looking forward to my next trip back here to see them, along with a string of other wonderful friends.

Eastward through Alanya

Side (Manavğat) to Alanya

Distance: 74  km
Time elapsed: 3:47:90 
Average speed:  22 km/ hr
Max speed:  48.7 km/ hr
Temp: 33  C
Weather: Hot with a lot of wind!

Shared a breakfast of olives, cheese, tomatoes, and the all important ekmek (bread) with Güler, Turan, Besral, and the girls. Today Feride was a lot less shy, even daring to come lay on the couch behind Chris and me while she watched her morning cartoons. I wonder how drastically different their urban youths-- with cartoons and internet inside their modern apartment-- compare to Turan and Güler's eastern Turkey childhood, sharing a village home with so many siblings (10 and 13 respectively!) in the 70's and 80's...


Turan's family photo, taken out near his home village of Ağri


Feride shyly waving goodbye

After Turan left for work we sat and talked with the women, this time a lot slower because we had no translator. We still got our messages across somehow. They both wished me children (when I tried to politely dismiss this with javaş javaş Güler laughed and yelled çabuk çabuk!! (quickly quickly!) and I promised that (god forbid) I ever end up with a child I would bring him or her to visit. In fact, if someday I do have a kid it's gonna have a lot of countries and people I've promised to introduce!


We made quite a scene for their neighbors

Chris and I left their apartment, waving to the girls out on the balcony, then took off for a long day's ride. Luckily the asphalt is still gloriously smooth (thank you road gods). We stopped at a few gas stations for oil and discovered that they all have self service free tea stations! OMG why didn't I know this before??


THIS is what a good road looks like....

As it turns out gas stations are one of the best places to meet locals who don't want to sell anything, and are always intrigued by our crazy bikes (and outfits I assume), especially when we can speak baby Turkish with them. If we take a long break Chris usually wows them with his portfolio of drawings, while I attempt translating and take photos.


Another gas station çay pitstop

Later we stopped at a large fruit and veggie village market off the main road, hoping to load up on peaches. This is Chris' obsession, and he's making a point of eating as many as possible before the season ends. A few days ago I refused to stop to buy any and he still hasn't forgiven me, so I'm trying to get back on his good side. :)


Where are the şeftali? (peaches)

At the end of the market we stumbled upon a small internet cafe, full of young boys playing video games. We tried for over two hours to burn our pics onto the DVDs but in the end our efforts were futile. However, the guy made us pay him (for both internet time and DVD burning) anyways. Sheesh.


Colorful patlican at the market

We did end up buying peaches. And tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, and a honeydew that we chopped open immediately, squatting to eat it next to the overfilled melon truck. Thank goodness fruit coordinates with the season - there's nothing like a cool drippy karpuz or kavün on a hot day!


Domates anyone?

Then on and on along the highway, up into some hills and back along the waterfront. Enormous Las Vegas-style hotels have sprung up along the coast approaching Alanya, so over-the-top I started expecting casinos and mini Eiffel Towers to emerge. The hotels are completely characterless except for one, modeled after an enormous caravansaerai, the nearby Alara Han. We're still in the Czech and Ukrainian zone.

So here I am, cruising along and rocking out to some Misfits, when all of the sudden I glance just to the left and am surprised to find a man, fully decked out in bike racing gear, gliding next to me with a huge grin on his face. Honest to god I instantly thought two things at once, in a micro second:

1) Is this my guardian angel? Have I somehow been hit or fallen, killed without knowing it and he's here to sail with me off into oblivion?
And 2) If he's my guardian angle maybe I'm about to be hit and he's going to somhow guide me to safety?

As it turns out he's real! Zafer, we later learned his name, put his hand on my bak and started pushing me faster, effortlessly taxiing me along the coast and even over the hills. At one point we reached speeds of 37 km per hour! I must say biking is fun, but sailing along powered by a biking angel is even more fun!


Zafer, my Turkish bike angel

Once in Alanya, we stopped to rest in a park, waiting for Chris who did not get taxied. Zafer is a racing cyclist, Turkish, married to an English woman. He trains everyday on this road, today doing a 91 km circuit (I noticed on his fancy odometer). I made him take some bananas as a payment for ferrying me. :)

Alanya is another Euro tourist city, but to an atrociously disgusting degree. The beachfront is nice, mostly full of hotel clubs,but there are some public parks at the end. The generally habited area is comprised of two parallel roads packed with expensive restaurants and hotels along the 12 km stretch. I didn't take any pictures because I don't want to remember this place exists, hoping it's style of development will quickly fade from my mind...


Approaching Alanya's castle under a bright moon, before the city madness

After a quick tour of the city, Chris ate a chicken sandwich and wrapped another to go, we sat in a tiny park, next to a fountain and near the beach. I bought a bucket of yoğurt from a nearby market, but have a strict yogurt limit (I'm quite sure 750 grams would make me throw up) so I made Chris eat his 2/3. That was pretty tough after his two döners, but he's a trooper.

Later in the night we ended up backtracking a few small hills to an isolated cove where we set up the tent. In the morning we cycled back toward town, stopping at a public beach (read: locals out for a picnic a la Turkish style) to swim and shower.

Team Jassler really appreciates public showers, unfortunately this one was slighty ruined because somebody(s?) stuffed a bunch of garbage wrappers into one of the broken walls. Really? Why feel the need to stuff your garbage there? You are a real swine, whoever you are.


Clean and refreshed, ready to tackle the city!

Alanya actually has two coves. With an old town and hilltop castle jutting out on a peninsula separating them. We spent the day wandering uphill, catching the cool breezes and admiring views of the sea below. On the west side, below the ancient castle walls, sits the Kızılkule (Red Tower), and below that we spied a collection of party boats, blasting music such as Celine Dion and the Macarena. Really when will the Titantic song just die and go away?? Nonetheless a fabulous view.

View of Alanya's eastern cove from the old town


One of Alanya's restored Ottoman homes, now restaurant

Near the hilltop castle lie several forgotten scattered ruins, such as a 12th century masoleum and crumbles of brick homes. There is no real modern development up here, just a few Ottoman homes in the process of restoration, lots of old Muslim graveyards, and plenty of loose farm animals. It actually feels more like a quiet, isolated village far away from any city centers.

One of many, many quiet graveyards

Lone mosque with a few rugs for sale

As the day cooled down we hiked back down the hill, grabbed our bikes and took off to find a place to camp for the night. We ended up about 30 km outside the city when the sun set, then found a small cove with a few boats and a little cafe. Hoping they wouldn't mind if we pitched our tent nearby, we asked the guys at the cafe, explaining we just want to quietly sleep. They insisted it's not a problem, even taking us around the corner where they have a treehouse platform no longer in use.

The nice guys set us up with mats and showed us where to lock our bikes, explaining that we should sleep near our belongings in case anyone came by. Later, when a motorcycle pulled up nearby on the upper road, we were a little spooked, but it turned out to be the cafe owner, stopping to deliver us some fresh bananas.

Apollo's Temple and Scattered Ruins

Aspendos to Side

Distance: 53 km
Time elapsed: 3:16:00
Average speed: 16.3 km/ hr
Max speed: 40.0 km/ hr
Temp: 45 C
Weather: Hot! Sunscreen melting in my eyes...

Today we met some awesome people. But that was at the end and I should begin at the beginning.


Morning at the Köprüpazar Köprüsü

Chris and I woke up on the Köprüpazar Köprüsü (Eurymedon bridge) before the sun, admiring the morning light on the river. Origonally built by the Romans, the bridge was later restored by the Seljuk Sultan Kayqubad and altered slightly into the Ottoman stle it is today.


Check out that slope!

Our first stop today was the Aspendos ruins, most famous for the immense and most complete amphitheater in turkey. It was built by the Romans but restored in the 12 century by the Seljuk Sultan, who adorned it with then-modern blue tiles and declared it his winter palace.


Aspendos, the LAST amphitheater pic I will post!

Although I can't deny it's size is impressive, the stage wall blocks out the morning sunlight, thereby lessening it's glory (for me not Chris) and making pictures sub par. Therefore I stick to my guns that Termessos is the best theater overall.


Aspendos' famous stage wall, still entact

I hiked up onto the hill over the theater and then back to the less-visited agora and necropolis, on a path overlooking the remains of the ancient aquaduct. Village homes and fields dot the landscape, or perhaps the stone ruins dot the villages and fields. Either way the surrounding area is a tranquil sight.


Aquaduct into the mountains

While I was out exploring Chris sold 2 drawings to some other tourists; perhaps this is a more ideal location to unload artwork!

We rode our bikes out on the choppy village road toward the far aquaduct, arriving drenched in sweat and immediately noticed by the old woman in the house nearby. She waved us over and insisted on giving us water and guarding our bikes while we look around, then invited us for çay. After we made the rounds and took some pics we returned to her porch to share some steaming hot tulip glasses of black tea with her and her komşu (neighbor), also her cousin. They showed us photos of their children and family (how many times have I sat to look through Albanian photo albums? People sure are the same), then we said thank you's and goodbyes, slightly reluctant to tackle the road in the heat.


Under the Roman aquaduct


The gals and me drinking tea

Back to the coast, the highway began passing through hotel resorts full of Europeans. Hoping to find a road along the beachfront, we approached the sands, surprised by the sight of so many fat white people. The beaches looked like Europoid harvests, with row after row of shiny bloated bodies laid out like a farm. Yuck.

Eventually we hit the town of Side, a touristy peninsula full of restaurants, shops, and pensiyons catering to Europeans (mostly German). The cool thing about Side is that there are tons of Hellenistic and roman ruins scattered throughout the town, sort of an open air museum. Many of the buildings are built right onto the old walls (archaeological heresy!) or simply around the pillars.


Hey look! We only have to buıld 3 walls!

We parked our bikes in a quiet park and as we were walking away a man from the nearby carpet shop called us over for some water. We weren't really excited to play the 'come for a drink and while you're here I'll show you my rugs' game, but he seemed nice enough and really are we silly enough to pass up water? We went inside and ended up having a good conversation, he seemed genuinely intersted in us and our crazy bike trip, and we were excited to learn he's Kurdish and from a north eastern village.


Spices and the nazar, or eveıl eye

Looking beyond all the tourist junk and boys calling to show you their restaurant menu, Side is a pretty cool place. We joined a bunch of other families and couples to take pictures around Apollo's temple at sunset, using the large atone chunks, beautiful ocean, and 5 restored pillars as a backdrop. Not that the ruins are neglected by the city, but it was so fun to be able to wander and lounge freely across them, just like they were part of nature.


Sunset at Apollo's temple

After sunset we wandered past the little harbor and summer stage (German rock music night), returned to our bikes, once again meeting with Turan, the carpet seller. He said oh but if we didn't need to go he would love to invite us to his house, to stay the night with his family, but we'd need to wait until he finished work in a few hours.

Hang out at the ruins and get to stay at your house? Yes please!

So we went back to the pillars that once supported an enormous temple for Apollo, near the temple of Athena (until she lost popularity in the 2nd century), laying across a marble colum stand and watchign the moon. The cool wind washing in from the sea was incredibly refreshing after such a hot day.


Temple pillars under the moonlight (look at all that dust! Time to clean my camera)

Later we followed turan to his apartment, just up from the main road near the entrance to Manavğat. He lives with his wife and two young daughters (next month their son is due) and his sister-in-law, whose husband is serving his obligatory military service in Izmir.


Güler, Turan, and Chris with a spread of delicious Turkish food

Güler, his wife, and Besral, the sister, sat with us around a large silver platter loaded with food in the TV room; a midnight feast full of Kurdish music and lots of questions between us all, thankfully with Turan able to translate. They taught us a few Kurdish words and engaged for several hours about their lives and opinions of Kurdish people and the situation for them in Turkey. Turan and Güler are from a northeastern village of Ağri, traditionally introduced and married when she turned 17, and like the rest of their families have moved west for work. Güler has 13 kadeşi (siblings), many who have scattered throughout Europe and a handful in Izmir, where most of Turan's family is also.



From left: me, Besral, Feride, and Güler

Watching the government-approved Kurdish tv channels, I was surprised to find a lot of their modern traditional music openly speaks out for Kurdish rights. Music with a social message? I haven't heard that in over 2 years! I don't understand the depths of Turkish politics (trying to strike up conversation with as many people to learn more, so far mixed reviews), but freedom here seems so polarized.


Besral and Berfin, sister and the youngest daughter with deer eyes

The government has cracked down on many Internet sites, YouTube for example is blocked, and tv is heavily moderated. Kurdish tv isn't even in their language and it isn't taught or used in the schools out east. Virtually everyone we have talked to says the people out east are traditional, brave, strong, strict, etc., but good people. It's the PKK that is stirrig up so much trouble, keeping the fight alive so the commotion distracts people from the real situation of drug traffiking across the porous borders, amongst other things. It doesn't help that so many Kurdish people feel oppressed (language, cultural heritage, job opportunities, etc) in their own country, so many of them have to emigrate to the west and away from their homeland.

Other people have said the current government is great, by far less corrupt, has improved the schools, roads, hospitals (with free national health care also), and generally they feel good about PM Erdoğan's foreign policy.

Anyway, I'm only scratching the surface. To live here a few years still might not be long enough to really understand.